The
late Joseph Puryear had this to say about the unclimbed East buttress on Mt
Johnson in his book 'Alaska Climbing':
"Quite
possibly the most beautiful unclimbed line in Alaska, this perfect flying
buttress is not without attempts. Renee Jackson and Doug Chabot reached a
height of 38 pitches and speculated another 15 or so. The route is destined to
become climbed, but short of a massive siege attempt it will require some very
modern climbing".
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